Ofunato

Japan Day 20

Overview

I have a personal project of running 1000 miles on every continent. On May 27, I started running through the Indian Himalaya mountains inspired by the “Great Himalayan Trail” (GHT), a concept of linking the Himalayas together in one thru hike. In 24 days, I covered 379 miles, the great majority of which above 3400m. On June 29, I started running through Japan in Part 2 of 2025’s production of I Run Earth in Asia.

Why am I doing this? To see what I can do, see the earth, and raise money for charity! My runs have raised over $20K for charity since 2024. In this run, I chose to support Rise Against Hunger, which provides school feeding programs across the world. Learn more and donate to Rise Against Hunger here.

Day 20: July 18 Ofunato

I woke up after an excellent night camped at the Buddhist Temple. A public bathroom there enabled me to charge some things overnight, a huge plus

The route weaved around the crooked coast and then up into the hills

Forest

Country roads

There is a major rice shortage in Japan now. Elderly part-time rice farmers account for the bulk of the rice production in Japan. While these folks don’t get all their income from rice, they rely on high rice prices for a significant portion of their income and also see rice farming as a way of preserving their cultural heritage. These people make up a significant voting bloc for the most powerful political party in Japan, which restricts rice production to keep prices high. Policies that restrict rice production have become more controversial as prices doubled in the last year.

Hot springs visitor center where I stop for lunch. I appear to be the only visitor under the age of 65 and feel like I’m at a senior living facility

Soba 😋

Mid swirl

That’s that coast

nice beach

and more concrete

slam dunk (I got scolded by the owner of the hoop for doing this)

Final stretch

When I get to Ofunato, I decide to stop in a hotel to ask about rooms. After sleeping for free just about every night of my run on the coast, I didn’t feel particularly inclined to pay for accommodation but told myself asking questions can’t hurt. the owner greets me and we engage in a conversation mediated by Google translate

Owner: the fee is 6000 yen ($40USD)

Me: ok, that’s too expensive for me. Thank you. [turn to leave]

Owner: [stops me] how much would you like it to be?

Me: I am looking for accommodation around 3000 yen ($20USD)

Owner: how about 5000 yen?

Me: [feeling bad] I’m sorry that’s still a bit expensive for me. I am tent camping most nights

Owner: ok how is 3000 with no meals?

Me: oh! That’s great! Thank you!

Owner: would you like to eat dinner here?

Me: what is the fee?

Owner: there is no fee

I think Google translate missed some things the hotel owner said including why she gave me free dinner. I asked her for a photo because she was so kind to me

I genuinely wasn’t trying to negotiate with her— I was trying to leave to find a place to camp before dark. I felt bad for paying so little when I saw how nice the room was. A private Japanese-style room with tatami mats.

The hotel even had a massage chair! This was far and away my favorite night on the Michinoku Trail so far